Reservations needed at bullfighting museum

Wednesday, March 16, 2005

By Steve Reed

Special to the Daily Mail

Hola, Mama!

Thursday was another educational module day for faculty and students.

This morning I was to lead a group of 18 students to Las Ventas, Madrid's massive bullfighting arena, and more specifically, to the Museo Taurino, the bullfighting museum behind the ring. After a quick attendance check, off we went to Las Ventas.

The stadium is huge, like an American sports stadium designed and built by Moors. The bullring opened in 1929. Stephen Drake-Jones, the guy who gave us our "Bloody Madrid" tour on Tueday, gave me some great information about things we would see here, such as the statue of the matador raising his cap to a Scottish doctor, Dr. Fleming, for his work with penicillin. Most of the students wanted to have their photo taken with this oversized bronze matador, which a couple of Spanish boys sitting on a bench found most amusing.

After a few hundred photos, we walked to the museum, the Museo Taurino, where I was about to use another valuable bit of information from Stephen: "Never argue with a Spaniard if you want something from him."

The guard at the door wasn't going to let us in. He didn't speak English and I don't speak Spanish. Fortunately, one of our students, Angela, is fluent in Spanish and did some translating. Turns out groups are supposed to make reservations but that is mentioned nowhere in the guide books or on their Web site. Anyway, I got ushered upstairs to talk to the director, who fortunately spoke some English.

Remembering what Stephen said, I immediately began apologizing for MY misunderstanding. I told him how sorry I was for the mistake, that if I had known, I would have honored the request, but would it be possible for us to come in?

At first the director said no, it was not possible. He was concerned that groups showing up unannounced would overwhelm the staff. One thing I forgot to mention, Mama, there were no other visitors in the building at the time. Still, rather than argue that point, I kept to the strategy at hand.

"I understand completely," I said. "But we have studied Manolete, Joselito, and Juan Belmonte and it would mean so much to us to see some of the famous artifacts from these matadors. We have traveled a great distance, and it would mean a lot to us if you would grant us this great favor." "OK," he said, straightening his jacket. "I give you 30 minutes."

I thanked him again, rushed out to get the students, and told them we had 30 minutes.

I pointed out a couple of highlights while the director followed me around. I showed the students the poster from the inaugural corrida (bullfight) at Las Ventas in 1929, and pointed out it was the only time eight bulls were fought in this ring. A regular corrida has only six bulls.

I asked the director if it was true that it was the only time eight bulls were fought in the ring, and he said yes it was true. I could sense his attitude changing when he figured out we really had studied a bit about bullfighting and the museum before we came there.

He was most helpful to us after that. Not wishing to push my luck, though, I made sure we left after 30 minutes and thanked the director again for his kindness. I'm thinking of a career in diplomacy after this morning.

Since our module got out a bit early, Becky and I took the students to an area of town that was where the weavers' guilds were located. Still today there are lots of linen shops on that street.

A few of the students picked up some really nice tablecloths to take home. Since I pretty much eat pizza in front of the TV at home, I didn't think I'd get much use out of a nice tablecloth.

By this time it was about noon, and the students really wanted to eat at the Hard Rock Cafe. When I'm traveling, I try to eat the local cuisine, but the students had been such good sports I agreed to go with them.

Madrid's Hard Rock has a large plastic bull that looks like it's breaking through the back wall. Every 30 minutes or so it begins to shake, bellow, and spew steam out of its nostrils. The students joked that coming to the Hard Rock was an extension of the bullfighting module. That night Becky and I had our second module of the day.

We took 46 students to the Cafe de Chitas to watch a flamenco performance. The show didn't start til 10:30 and didn't end until 1:30. Madrid is definitely a late night city.

I liked this performance even more than Monday's at Casa Patas. This show had six different female dancers and they wore more of what I would call traditional costumes. Some of the dances also featured the castinets, which were not used at Casa Patas. I guess I liked it better because it was more of a show or spectacle with all the costumes, lighting, and different styles.

Whatever the difference was, it was a pretty neat show.Because the Metro shuts down shortly after 1:30, we took taxis back to the hotel. Let me tell you, a taxi ride in Madrid is more exciting than a roller coaster. Within the first 15 seconds another taxi narrowly missed hitting us by inches. I know it was that close because it was right next to my door. After the near miss, nothing else seemed too bad. I mean, he did stop for MOST of the red lights. Although we joked about it, I think we were all glad to have our feet back on the sidewalk again.

Only one more day in Madrid, Mama. Hard to believe the week has gone so quickly.