Best eatery this side of Paris

"Odie, turn on channel 19, there is a Charles Gusewelle special on." That was my entreaty to my friend and long time devotee of the author and columnist for the Kansas City Star, Charles Gusewelle. Little did I realize at the time, that this special show would hit so close to home, and especially to one of my favorite restaurants, which Gusewelle described as the "best little eatery this side of Paris!"

Odie Braswell and I have been fans of "Gus" as Charles Gusewelle likes to be called by his friends, for many years.

His columns have ranged from stories from all over the world, to hundreds that are from closer to home. He is one of those authors who has a flare for the use of the English language, that is simply wonderful. As he often says, there is nothing more important than words for humans.

In last weeks PBS special titled, "Away From It All," Gus invited us to view his getaway place of many years, his family cabin. The cabin is centrally located in the countryside between Appleton City, Osceola, and Collins, Mo.

In the special, Gus tells us that the cabin and small pond originally rested on only 40 acres. Since that time, he has added land to the tune of a thousand acres, and added several small ponds, and one very large lake.

The lake is vital to the getaway theme for Gus. He and his family are dedicated fishing enthusiasts. One of the perks that Channel 19 the PBS affiliate in Kansas City is offering for a charitable donation, is a visit to the cabin, and a chance to go fishing with Gus and his family.

During the special, Gus and his family traveled to Collins to have dinner one evening, at the famous "Smiths Restaurant." In his own words, Gus calls this "the best eatery this side of Paris!" Thus you now know the origination of this article's title.

For those of you who have never been to Smiths, I am truly sorry. Like Gus, I think of Smiths as one of my all time favorite places to stop and have any meal, breakfast all the way to the evening dinner hour.

For years now another close friend, Doug Campbell and I, have made Smiths Restaurant a regular stop, on our way to ball games anywhere nearby. When I say nearby, I am serious. If the game we were attending was anywhere even close, you could be assured we would not find a significant detour to Smiths unreasonable.

Sometimes on weekends, along with friends or family, we would just take the forty-five mile trip to Smiths, just because we were missing the food there. Once you have tried their food fare, I assure you, you will think of Smiths, much as Gus and I do.

The owner of the establishment is C. A. Smith. I knew him for many years before I even realized he was the proprietor of Smiths Restaurant. Back in the heyday of men's fast pitch softball, C. A. was a member and sponsor of a team from Collins.

One of my favorite things to do when I visit the restaurant is to tease C. A. about the days when I was an umpire in many of those games. It is difficult to believe, that this now gracious host at this restaurant, was such a terror on the field, and an absolute umpire hater in those days.

The food at Smiths is basic and midwest in style and flavor. They have a few items that one must try, if you are to know the best that they offer. The first of these is the famous tenderloin.

A word of caution to those of you who have never had the pleasure of eating at Smiths. If you order any of their entrees, be prepared for a portion that is extra large plus. In the case of the tenderloin, the oblong plate they provide, is barely sufficient.

Since Smiths is located not far from the lakes areas of Missouri, fish is a regular menu item. If you happen by there on your travels during the morning hours, Smith's breakfast menu is amazing as well. No matter what you finally decide to try, plan on a take home box, not a "doggy bag." Any dinner or breakfast will offer you at least one more meal at home.

No trip to Smiths would be complete according to Gus without a bowl of one of their famous cobblers. I say bowl instead of plate, because these are the types of cobblers that just don't seem complete without a topping of ice cream.

During the PBS special, Gus and his family are shown at a recent outing at Smiths. It made me feel so at home, as I have sat so many times at the same round table that Gus and his family were seated.

If you are looking for a reason to visit this "best eatery this side of Paris," here are a few suggestions. Nevada High School has recently joined a new conference, that includes Warrensburg and Sedalia. I can assure you that I will be stopping at Smiths on my way to ball games at either venue.

If you watch PBS, check out their offering of a day at the cabin with Gus. You could go see his cabin and go fishing, then stop at Smiths on the way home.

You see, I am alway looking for a good reason, like Gus, to go to Smiths. If you have never been, then I am telling you outright, it is definitely worth the trip. If it has been a while since you were there, than put it on your to-do list.

After all, Gus and I have told you it is "the best eatery this side of Paris!"